The Third Rail

Here is the video of Ryan Moon working what became the third rail, an amazing line on the trogdor boulder. I’ve been eyeing this for a while, glad to see it got sent. Good job Ryan! http://vimeo.com/23158511

Daniel

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Wonder No More Right Sit

Here is a video of Dean sending the new right sit start to Wonder No More in the Lower Arb. This extension was added a week ago by Jeremy Meigs and is a great addition to the area. Instead of starting matched on the undercling start over to the right on a left hand pinch and a right hand dimple. This extension climbs really well and bumps the grade up to V8. Check it out next time your in the area!

Daniel

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Classic V0 Highballs

On page 40 of the guide there is an arrow in the map pointing to some random classic lines that aren’t topo’d. Well these are the lines that we were talking about. These lines have obviously been climbed but they both need some cleaning before they are climbed again, especially the left line. That was one reason we didn’t include them in the guide. I’ll also note that the problem that Dave Yerian is on in the photo on pg. 20 is the right line in the photo.

In other news everything is dry up here and the weather is amazing right now! There will be more updates like this and I’ll post up the beta on all the new lines going down soon!

Daniel

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FA-Team

FA-Team is the right line in this photo. This is another new problem that was put up right after the guide was completed. It is located at the stage coach boulders in the state park, and is by far the best line in that sector. Sit start in the pit matched on the obvious pinch hold and climb straight out the scoop and up to the  massive bucket, then top out. The sit start is V5 and the stand start is V3. The line to the left is an unnamed Dean Fleming line that sit starts and checks in around V2/3. There is also a dirty V0 on the back of the boulder that also climbs well. This boulder is easy to find, just follow the directions in the guide for the stage coach boulders. This boulder is simply one more boulder in from the stage coach road in relation to the other boulders there.

In other news all the boulders in general have been drying out quite a bit lately, and it seems as if most of the areas are climbable. There is some light rain today, but a day or two of good weather should dry everything up if it stays light like this. Hope this helps!

Daniel

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The Gambler

http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/bouldering_in_columbia_california/index8.html

This is another photo from the Dean’s gallery…It is a shot of me on the FA of the Gambler V8ish. This is in the guidebook as Project U on pg 102 up in the lab main area. This is just the stand start of the line and starts on a right hand crimp and left hand sloper/pinch. Make one very hard low percentage move to the pocket and then up to the top. It will definetely go from a lower stand (which does make sense because the ground slopes down toward the wall IMO) or possibly even a sit, which would be way way harder. Check it out next time your up there.

Daniel

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Hiding in Plain Sight

http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/bouldering_in_columbia_california/index12.html

The link above is a to a photo of me on a new problem called Hiding in Plain Sight V7. It was taken by Dean Fleming of course, and is part of his featured climbing mag web gallery. This problem starts as a low stand at the base of the roof in the crack. And then climb straight out the roof  and then up the face. It is going to be a classic, and is one of the sickest lines in Columbia, it also has a near perfect landing which is also a plus. It is located near the main area of the Labyrinth. Follow the approach directions as for the lab main area on pg. 94 of the guide, but just after the “second faint trail at fork” you’ll drop into the Labyrinth itself and then immediately take a left up a not so obvious rock hopping path, go through a corridor, and then end up right at this boulder. Check it out next time your in the lab. Also I should note that the arete to the left is still up for grabs…

Update: The left arete was sent by Ryan Moon yesterday. It is called Dolphin Girl V6, it starts on the kickboard near the hiding in plain sight start, then busts out the arete. And it’s rad!

Daniel

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Batt Vision

I put this climb up last spring after B-Batt invisioned the line (hence the name). This climb is to the left of Grave of the Underpants and checks in around V6. Stand start on the vertical wall and climb only the prow into the end of Grave of the Underpants. A fun climb with cool moves.

Daniel

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